This post may contain affiliate links. If you click on these links and make a purchase, I may earn a small commission- at no extra cost to you.
If you asked me what my number one budget friendly way is to update any space in your home, I will tell you time and time again- PAINT! The power of paint is amazing! It can take a dull and dreary space and turn it into a light and bright one. And guess what- those kitchen and bathroom cabinets are no different!!!
Do you have cabinets that have “good bones” but just aren’t the color you want. They are structurally sound, but maybe the wood tone is too dark or too light, or they are already a color but you aren’t happy with it? Guess what? YOU CAN paint them!!! Yes- YOU!!!
To have it done professionally can cost THOUSANDS! But YOU CAN do it yourself- for just the cost of paint and supplies! You CAN have a brand new look to your kitchen or bath and stay on budget.
I think that my most asked question in my home remodel has been: how did you paint your cabinets? Are you ready to hear how? Today, I am going to share my process, tips and tricks. At the end of this post is a video tutorial also.
PREP… PREP… PREP.
I will say it again… PREP is KEY and so important to having a long lasting and durable finish.
So let’s take a look at a few BEFORE pictures of my kitchen cabinets. I love to be able to show you what is possible in a space and there is no better way than with a good before and after.
I first gather my supplies. Using good quality products and supplies will produce a much better overall finish. I used a sanding block (120 grit is good), TSP substitute, primer, cabinet paint, 6″ roller, an angled brush, paint tray, painting triangles and painters tape. You will also need a screwdriver or drill to remove the hinges, knobs and pulls.
You will want to set up an area inside to work that your cabinets won’t be disturbed while drying, this could even be in your garage or basement. I laid down drop cloths to protect the work area. Then decided which section to start first and removed all the doors and drawers.
I did NOT do the entire kitchen at once. I started by dividing my kitchen into sections. With little kiddos in tow, I knew I wouldn’t be able to do the entire kitchen at once. So I divided mine into 4 sections: 2 upper sections and 2 lower sections. My island was added a little later, but if it had been existing, I would have made it its own section too.
FIRST, choose the section to work in and you will take off all the drawers and doors for that section. TIP 1: I number the drawers and doors as I remove them with a small piece of painters tape and put the same number on a piece of tape on the area they came from- this makes it easy to put them right back where they originally came from- no guessing.
After the drawers and doors are off the cabinet frames, you will to take off all the hardware. If you plan to reuse the same hardware this is a great time to clean them. I put mine in the sink and sprayed with a kitchen degreaser and let sit for about 10 minutes, then soak in a dishpan with some hot water and mild detergent. You can scrub with an extra toothbrush to get in the crevices, then rinse and then allow to dry on paper towels.
TIP 2: Keep the hardware and screws you remove organized and together. I keep mine in ziplock bags- one for each type of hardware (one for hinges, one for knobs, one for pulls) putting the screws that go with each in the bag with the hardware it matches. If you plan to replace the hardware then you can of course skip this step.
Now it’s time to PREP the cabinets, door and drawers. First I like to give them a good cleaning with a TSP substitute and a rag. This will help remove any food, grease, dust, dirt and buildup from everyday use.
Once you’ve cleaned them it’s time to sand. I use a 120 grit sanding block. You aren’t trying to sand the old finish totally off or get them to bare wood. The goal is to “degloss” them and roughen up the surface to give the paint and primer some “tooth” to grip to. You will need to sand the drawer fronts, cabinet doors (front and back) and the cabinet frame. Once all the sanding is done. Wipe all the surfaces down well with a tack cloth to remove the dust from sanding. I then took the extra step to clean again with the TSP substitute. (Remember PREP is KEY!)
Now it’s time to prime! I like to use this primer. I use an angled brush to cut in and get in the grooves and tight spaces. I then use this roller to roll on the larger areas and provide uniform coverage. I have tried the foam type rollers, but have always found that they tend to “slip” around on the surface causing smears. So after painting … A LOT… this is my go to roller. You need to allow the primer to dry thoroughly. I usually only need one coat, but if there are some areas that look as though they need a second coat… it’s much better to prep well as each coat builds on the next.
Once the primer coat(s) is dry, it’s time to start painting. After LOTS of trial and error and research, THIS paint has been the best product I have found. It cures more quickly than a standard paint- which means less risk for chips and the surface can take full use more quickly than others. It is self leveling which helps you get a nice smooth surface. It also dries quick and has low odor. You can of course get it tinted to any color you like. I used Behr Ultra Pure White on my kitchen cabinets and Sherwin Williams Dovetail on my powder room cabinet.
Cabinet Color: Behr Ultra Pure White Cabinet Color: SW Dovetail
I start with an angled brush, getting in the tight corners and areas too small to get with a roller and then I go back and roll. I work one one door or drawer at a time, brush then roll, then move to the next one- that way none of the brushstrokes that you will blend in with the roller have time to dry. You will want to put the doors on these little triangles to allow you to get the edges and prevent drips. You will do one side of the doors at a time. Allow them to thoroughly dry between coats. Don’t forget to do the drawer fronts and the cabinet frame. Mine only needed two coats of paint for complete coverage. Told you this paint is awesome!
Once the cabinets for the section you are working on are all dry, replace the hardware (new or existing) and then reinstall the doors and drawers.
I did one section of my cabinets a week. Taking my time and completing one section before moving to the next.
Here is a video tutorial with the steps I used to achieve my finished cabinets.
Now step back and admire all your hard work AND all that money you saved tackling this project yourself.
You CAN do these projects to create spaces in your home you love and still stay on a budget.
Be sure to check back soon for more budget friendly decor, tutorials, recipes, mom life and all the in between!
Jessica W says
These came out so beautiful!!!! Love the kitchen!! Did you use any caulk on the doors or wood grain filler? The look perfect! I’m in the process of painting oak cabinets and torn on if I should do either of those!
MyDIYHappyHome says
Hi. Mine did not need either of those. However, if you have areas where the door detail has gaps then you may need to caulk for a clean crisp finish. If you have any “knots” in you wood you may need to apply a coat of shellac to seal those and keep them from bleeding through the finish.
Kimberly says
Thanks for the great tutorial! Looking forward to painting my cabinets now instead of saving up all year to pay someone else to do it.
MyDIYHappyHome says
Yay! I am so happy to inspire you AND help you save soooo much money by doing it yourself. 🙂
June DeMott says
Hi Tiffany!!! I started painting my cabinets today with the paint you suggested. I’ve gotten my first coat done and am now wondering how well this satin paint will cleanup. How are you finding the cleanability and would you suggest doing a protective coat?
MyDIYHappyHome says
Hi. The paint I used- the BEHR alkyld enamel is very durable and did not need a top coat and wipes up very easily.
Melody Hunter says
Where can I purchase the metal rod at the end of the island (where the hanging basket, towels and cutting boards are)? Thank you!
MyDIYHappyHome says
The metal rod and hooks are from Hobby Lobby.