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(This post is NOT sponsored in any way. I purchased all the items to redo my countertops and have not been compensated in any way for this post.)

Do you have countertops that are outdated or a color that you don’t love? But it’s not in the budget right now to replace them? 

Me too! 

When we bought our home in December 2017, it needed lots of love. It had good bones, but had zero updates since it was built in 1990! 😱 

Let’s look at a few BEFORE views of our kitchen before we bought the house. These images are from the real estate listing:

What I didn’t love: the cabinet color, the soffits, the blue laminate countertops and backsplash, very little countertop space to cook, serve and prep. Seems like a lot I didn’t like right? I agree, but I had a vision for the space… two actually- one involved a total gut job, reconfiguration and THOUSANDS of dollars. The other vision involved DIY’s, cosmetic updates a little demo and lots of hard work- but saved us SOOOOO much money. 

You can read about how I updated my cabinets by painting them myself HERE. 

I also removed the soffit allowing me to add a pendant light above the sink (rather than the fluorescent strip light that was there) and it was then that I discovered extra storage space that had been hidden since 1990. 

I also added an island for more storage and counter space. A couple of years ago, I built a smaller one that was 25″ x 42″. I recently widened the island – expanding it to 39”wide x 62” long. It allowed for much more counter and prep space, an extra cabinet that I added a pull out trash can in, and allowed us to add barstools.

Now let’s talk about the countertops. Remember I said they was blue laminate? Well after we moved in, I found a very thick, heavy duty peel and stick film. The one I chose had a marble look and was a great temporary fix. I have all the details on the peel and stick countertops HERE.

While the heavy duty marble look film gave me the look I wanted, I knew it was a temporary update. After almost three years, they started to show signs of wear, some knicks, scratches and dings happened over the few years of use. Rather than replacing them again, I looked into other options.

I would love quartz countertops, but total replacement is just not in the budget right now.  I came across an epoxy countertop painting kit that came in several finish options including granite and marble. Almost everything you need is in the kit and you can do it in a weekend. 

Paint + doable in a weekend = my kind of project.

I researched, watched videos and asked several friends who had used the exact kit I was looking at or a similar one. 

Then, I decided to go for it! What did I have to lose besides blue countertops 😉 and since it is paint- it can always be painted again.

THIS is the kit I chose to use, it is by the company Giani.

The kit states it can “cover 35 sq. ft. or 16 running feet of standard 24” wide countertops”. 

The Giani company includes several ways to contact them if you have any questions: phone, email or live chat- all the contact information is on their website: https://gianigranite.com

The company states that it can be used on Formica, Laminate, Corian, backsplashes, primed plastic, fireplace mantles, wood, metal, cultured marble, real concrete, real granite. Some of the surfaces will require a few extra steps to prep it before starting-per the companies instructions. 

Also, per the companies instructions, the Giani Marble kit is “NOT for use on tubs, flooring or shower doors/floors.”

The kit comes with almost everything you need to complete the project. The instructions state that you will need to purchase separately/have on hand: green frog tape, tweezers, clear acrylic caulk (for sealing), paper towels, acetone nail polish remover, step stool, safety glasses, SOS or Brillo pad, paint tray, paint can opener, #600 grit sandpaper. I also recommend having an extra 1-2 pairs of disposable gloves, a couple of extra stirring sticks and extra plastic tarps- the thicker is better.

Before I could begin the prep, I had to remove the peel and stick film and my peel and stick backsplash (I will be adding a tile backsplash). There was some residue left behind from the peel and stick film, but it came up easily using some goo gone and a scrub pad. Once the film was removed, I cleaned the countertops really good using a kitchen degreaser. Then I cleaned them again with rubbing alcohol to make sure I had removed all the goo gone residue.  My enlarged island has a butcher block surface that I added, I chose an inexpensive option knowing that I was going to be using this kit. I recommend sanding the butcher block surface with 220 grit sandpaper so you have a nice smooth surface for application.

Now it was time to get started.

Before you begin, I recommend reading through all the instructions FIRST. Then watch the companies YouTube video tutorial. 

I am going to tell you along the way- what I did, what I did wrong and what I would do differently if I could go back and start again. 

***You will need to make sure the countertops will not be touched at all, for at least 48 hours. So plan accordingly. 

I was able to complete the main painting process in one day, but you need to allow a weekend for prep, application of paint and epoxy and then clean up. 

Now it’s time to start to prep the kitchen. PROPER PREP is key to a lasting final product. 

I followed the included instructions for prep: removing caulk from counter/backsplash, cleaning with a scouring pad, patching any deep nicks or seams, taking off the workspace and then tarping the area.

Depending on the surface, you may need to take a few extra steps to prep before you can begin. Per the instructions the surfaces that need a few extra prep steps are: wood, metal, cultured marble, real concrete, and real granite. 

The directions state that for wood, metal and cultured marble you need to “de-gloss with a very fine #300 grit sandpaper, then wipe clean with a damp cloth. For unsealed wood, apply a good, oil-based primer before applying the Surface Conditioner. Apply the wood primer with a foam roller for ultra-smooth finishes because thicker nap rollers will leave a textured surface.”

The directions state that for Real Concrete and Real Granite: “for granite and concrete that are fully cured, clean the surface with xylene or lacquer thinner, and then wipe-up with rubbing alcohol to ensure any wax or sealer which may have been applied had been removed before applying the Surface Conditioner. Please note, xylene and lacquer thinner are very flammable!”

My FIRST mistake: I didn’t read EVERY.SINGLE.WORD and the fine print of the instructions and missed the step (in the fine print) to prime my (butcher-block) wood countertop. 🤦🏼‍♀️ The companies video didn’t cover prep for special surfaces, it just said it could go over laminate and wood I DID sand it… but was rushing to try and get the main part done while my kids were at school… and when I rush- mistakes happen. We will see how the island portion holds up over time. 

To remove any caulk, you can carefully trim it ALL away with a utility knife and peel it up. Then clean up the area if any remaining residue with rubbing alcohol.

Then clean the surfaces well with water and a scouring pad- the kit recommends SOS or Brillo brand. The scouring pad will clean and roughen up the surface. Then rinse well, at least twice with water. 

If you have any nicks or seams, fill those in with wood filler. Allow to dry, then sand with #300 grit sandpaper. Wipe up to remove dust. The Giani countertop kit states it can cover/level shallow, thin scratches. 

Next is taping off. I recommend using the green Frog tape in the wider 1.88” option. You will need to tape off: exposed walls, above backsplash, around cooktops or ovens, and under the edge of the countertops. The instructions recommend 2 layers of tape on your walls and backslash area for a wider coverage. (You can remove the kits materials when wet, but it is much more difficult to remove once fully cured). When taping off the underside of your countertops, leave a 1/8” gap between the tape and the edge of your counters. This will prevent a buildup of materials on the underside of your counters. Also tape off all edges of your sink. 

Now you need to apply the plastic tarps. The kit include 2 tarps, I recommend you purchase a few extra. I also recommend some that are slightly thicker to place at the base of your cabinets to catch the epoxy drips. You will need to cut a small section from one tarp to cover your sink, faucet, and fixtures. Cut another section to cover any appliances in the work area such as dishwasher, stove and cooktop. I was able to move my refrigerator out of the way. 

I also used adhesive masking film to cover and protect my lower cabinets. Then used plastic dropcloths to cover the flooring surface in the workspace. Do NOT rely on fabric drop cloths. The epoxy topcoat will seep through these and onto your flooring!!! (I learned this the hard way, but luckily caught it in time and was able to remove the epoxy off my floor while it was still wet.) 

Prep is DONE! 

Now to apply STEP 1: White Base Primer.  You will need to stir the white base primer well then pour about half of the white base primer into your paint tray. Use the included foam brush to cut in around creases, edges, corners and then the included FABRIC roller cover to fill in the rest. *(Save the two included foam roller covers for the epoxy topcoat application). Work in 2-3 foot sections at a time, cutting in with the foam brush then immediately rolling to blend the brush strokes.  If you have a connected backsplash, that is part of your countertop, the instructions recommend using the foam brush for the first coat, then the roller for the second.  As you complete a 2-3 ft section, move on to the next, blending it with the previous section while both are still wet. Repeat until the entire countertop is covered. Allow the first coat to dry for at least one hour. The first coat will look streaky or uneven. The second (or third if necessary) coat will give full coverage. 

Once the first coat is dry, apply the second coat using the same steps. Allow to dry for at least an hour.  I applied a third coat to my countertops. 

While the primer coats are drying, plan our your veining. Research marble countertops to decide which veining style(s) you want to use and how you will lay them out so they flow. This is an example of a solid surface countertop I used as my inspiration (source from google):

This is where I did something a little different. I found a marble spray and ended up using it instead of the included “step 2” paints for the veining. The marble spray I chose is in the color silver. The spray brand I used is also available in the colors: gold, black, blue, pastel green, red and white. 

While my primer coats dried, I practiced with the marble spray. I covered a space (I used my outdoor dining table) with a drop cloth and then used some large craft paper to practice with the spray. Varying angles, the amount of pressure I applied to the spray trigger, the closeness I sprayed until I achieved a look I wanted. The spray did not have any odor and dried very quickly. 

Now for step 2: Veining. Once all my primer coats were applied and dry, I applied some brown craft paper to my walls and backsplash area and made sure all surrounding areas were covered with the plastic drop cloths. I started on my countertops and did the island last. I sprayed a little at a time using the technique I liked best from when I practiced. I added more as needed to achieve the veining look I wanted and made sure to apply to edges also. The entire marble spraying process took me about 10 minutes.

Once the veining is done it is time for the epoxy topcoat. The included topcoat in the kit is low odor. You will want to close exterior doors and windows, turn off all fans and close floor and ceiling HVAC vents. You will need to “restrict access to the workspace, making sure to keep the area free of pets and children to minimize accidental contact with the epoxy”.  I applied signs all over the entire kitchen area as a reminder to my family to not touch the surface for a full 48 hours. Use painters tape to create “dams” on the edge of your countertops that are next to appliances.

Now it’s time to mix the epoxy. It is VERY important to follow the included instructions exactly or the epoxy will not set and cure. The kit comes with three sets of the epoxy topcoat. Each set contains two cans: one can of activator and one can of resin. Each set is made to cover a 6 ft section. You will need to apply gloves and safety glasses. Have your roller ready with one of the included foam rollers. Only mix one set at a time. Mix exactly per the instructions. Use the one mixed set and apply per the included instructions. After mixing, the instructions state you have about 30 minutes to use the mixed product to completely coat the section you are working on.

Knowing that each epoxy set will cover 6 ft, I planned out in advance where I would use each mixed set. 

The epoxy is self leveling. You do not want to overwork it. Once mixed, pour the epoxy onto your first section per the instructions. Use the included 2” brush to transfer some of the epoxy to the attached backsplash area (if you have one). Use the brush along edges and the foam roller to lightly roll the epoxy to evenly distribute it- being careful bit to apply to much pressure with the roller. I rolled the top surface of the countertops first, then to make sure the edges are fully coated, lightly roll the edges. The epoxy may drip off the edges and onto the tarps (this is ok- and this is why I say to make sure to completely cover the lower cabinets). 

*note: “once you have rolled on your topcoat, do NOT add more epoxy unless you have a bare spot. Doing so will result in an unbalanced proportion of the mix and will result in blemishes”.

After you have covered your first section, mix a second set of epoxy and continue onto the next section repeating the same steps.  Be sure to use a NEW stirring stick when mixing each new set of epoxy to prevent contamination. And set your roller on a protected surface (not in an empty activator can) while mixing the next set. 

Repeat with the third set of epoxy if needed. 

Once your finished applying the epoxy, use a bright light to inspect the surface closely. Look for bare spots, bubbles or lint. Per the instructions, “you have about 40 minutes after applying the epoxy to correct any flaws”. To fix a bare spot, “use the 2” brush to drizzle a little epoxy onto the bare spot and dab lightly”.  For lint, dust or an occasional air bubble- use tweezers to pull out the debris or gently pop the bubbles. Do NOT use tweezers after an hour.  This epoxy DOES NOT require a blow torch or heat gun as it has been formulated with air release agents. 

“Remove the tape between 1-2 hours after epoxy application. If your remove too early, the epoxy may continue to self level onto an appliance. If your remove too late, it may create jagged edges and become cemented into the epoxy.”

Be sure to keep ceiling fans off, keep air vents in the area closed and windows closed to prevent dust or lint from blowing onto the epoxy while it settles. 

TIP: I did leave the plastic tarp around my cabinets and on the floor… and I’m glad I did… the epoxy did continue to drip a little as it settled, even after the 1-2 hours. Also while removing the tape at the 1-2 hour post epoxy application time, I took an extra paint stir stick and slowly ran it along the underside edge of my countertops to scrape off any excess epoxy drips. 

After 48 hours, apply clear acrylic caulk (NOT SILICONE) around your backsplash and sink. 

The instructions state: “Once applied, your counters will be tack free in 6-8 hours. You can use your dishwasher after 24 hours. You can LIGHTLY use your countertops after 48 hours. They will be fully cured after 7 days.” 

I did not place anything heavy on mine until after the full 7 day cure time. 

“FOOD SAFETY: Once the Ultra Epoxy Topcoat fully cures, it’s completely inert.”

Dispose of all materials and empty products per the company instructions.

For care and maintenance:

CLEANING: 

Clean ONLY with mild dish soap and water or Giani Countertop Cleaner. There is long list on the instructions of all the products that you should not use to clean them. If you stick with mild dish soap and water or the Giani countertop cleaner you will help protect the finish. 

Use cutting boards for food prep when cutting or chopping. The Giani Ultra top coat states it is heat resistant up to 250 degrees, but the company recommends using a hot pads or trivet for items directly from the stove or oven. 

STAINS: The instructions state that “you can remove stubborn stains with nail polish remover (acetone) and a paper towel. 

UV RAYS: The instructions state that “all surfaces will exhibit some UV effect over time”, it states that the “ Giani UV effect will be minimal, but recommends closing blinds while away in windows that will provide direct sunlight onto your countertops. 

Giani instructions states that “with proper care, Giani Marble will last as long as any conventional countertop.”

Is my countertop perfect? NOPE. I do have a few small bubbles and a spot with a small piece of lint I missed, but they are not noticeable unless I point them out. 

Can you get different colors? YES. The Giani site offers several different countertop kits not just the marble, and if you want the marble kit but a different color for the veining your can order extra colors through the companies A LA CARTE section of their website. https://gianigranite.com/collections/a-la-carte

I purchased the standard Giani Marble Countertop kit and then also purchased the marble spray. With those items and the extras (tape, drop cloths, etc) needed to complete the project I would say it cost me about $225-$245.

Cost breakdown: (these are the prices I paid at the time), you can purchase the kit from Amazon (I ordered from Amazon) or the Giani website. 

The Giani kit: $180.10

Marble spray (with shipping): $27.79

Frog Painters tape: $ 8.98

Masking tape film: $8.97

Clear caulk: $10.60

Disposable paint tray: $2.50

I had the other items on hand already. 

If you have been wanting an updated look to your kitchen or bathroom countertops- this kit is a great way to do that on a budget! My only regret is not having done this sooner!!!

I hope you’ll come back for more home projects, DIY’s, decor, recipes and all the in between.

Be sure to follow along with my over on Instagram for daily inspiration.